If at First You Don’t Suceed

As every obsessive climber does I made a couple of climbing related goals this year.

  1. I would like to flash an 11a in my local gym
  2. I would like to start flashing v4s consistently
  3. I want to try bouldering outside.

What really excites (and makes me nervous) about these goals is that I haven’t done any of them before! Even knowing that, this part of me was thinking that these goals would be easy goals. I would try for a couple of weeks and then all of a sudden my goals would be completed for the year! I would wipe the chalk off my hand, drop the mic, and leave for the next adventure.

Well… this weekend I realized it’s 4 weeks into the year and I still haven’t accomplished my goals. Like… that was unexpected. I’m still struggling on v2s, and v3s, and I have only picked up a rope twice to lead on. In fact I even turned down #3 this weekend as I was invited along to go bouldering outside in St. George. I have some work to do.

My biggest fault so far is that I haven’t set reasonable trainings or steps to reach my goals. I just thought it would come naturally as I keep doing the same things I have always done.

Flash an 11a in the local gym

My biggest weakness with sport climbing is endurance. I can normally pull all the moves required on an 11a, but I need a LOT of breaks. I can make the first three clips, but then after that I’m so pumped I need to rest on every other clip.

With my life choices I have made I can make it to the climbing gym about twice a week. My goal here will be to endurance train while I’m there. I’m going to do this for the whole month of February. Since I’m out of town the last few weeks I will also do it for a good chunk of March.

If I am top roping, I will pick easier climbs 10b – 10c and climb those 3-4 times in a row (crowds permitting).

If I’m leading I will do even easier ones from 5.9 – 5.10a 2-3 times in a row.

If I’m bouldering I will traverse a bouldering wall. I have never done that so I will start with 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off for about 30 minutes and see how it goes. I may need to adjust it to a higher amount.

Start flashing v4s

In bouldering what I’m lacking most is strength, especially in my fingers. I need to start exercising my fingers and chin up muscles more.

I’m looking into buying some kind of finger strengthener that I can use daily. Which one will I decide on? Still looking into it, but I plan on buying by the end of the weekend! A hang board would be great, but it’s not as portable as a finger strengthener.

I also need to work on my pull up muscles. I want to dedicate 2 workouts to muscles. I don’t want to just focus on a chin ups, but those muscles will definitely be a target.

On top of that, a yoga session or two would be awesome to maintain some flexibility.

Try bouldering outside

This one I need to stop throwing out excuses and just do it! The hardest part for me is that I think I need to go somewhere “real” that is known for bouldering that is 2-4 hours away from me. I also feel this need to have to go with a group of people I know. I’m going to take a look into something closer, and I’m going to work on my alone/small group adventuring in a safe manner! Don’t worry Mom!

The best part? I still have 11 months to get my act together. I can still easily do this even if I need to start working on it!

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